Join us for our “Travel Diaries,” the world as seen through the eyes of you explorers, dreamers, and adventurers who never cease to amaze! This time we asked Giulia, a friend and nature guide with whom we organize trekking experiences in Italy and Europe, to tell us about “her” Brittany. Here’s her interview and her wonderful pictures!
Why did you choose Brittany as a trekking destination outside of Italy?
Brittany is a destination that has always called to me, with its “Finisterre” charm, the end of the world, jutting out into the Atlantic Ocean and exposed, especially at its most extreme, to the force of the elements. Nature still reigns supreme here, in some cases.
It’s a land rich in history, where Celtic culture still permeates many aspects of daily life, making it a place of great charm and magic: Brittany is, in fact, one of the Celtic Nations and is considered the land of Druids. It was apparently the “homeland” of Merlin and is one of his symbolic places, not to mention archaeological sites like Carnac.
I’m also fascinated by the character of its people: proud and independent, different from the rest of France, inextricably linked to its sea and the vestiges of its forests.
Last but not least, it’s an opportunity to experience the sea (or rather, the ocean) in a wilder form, and with a cool, temperate climate even in summer.
Briefly describe your itinerary!
We decided to travel by car from Italy on a “road trip” to be independent and able to choose what to do each day, but we chose the stops from home. We traveled with our dog, and although Brittany is a dog-friendly destination, it’s advisable to book in advance to avoid unpleasant surprises!
When choosing the itinerary, I favored the coast, which we toured almost entirely in the 12 days we had available. On the first day, we arrived in Vannes, in southwest Brittany, which was a stopover for us on the way to Belle-Île-en-Mer, one of the main destinations of our trip. However, we discovered a picturesque and charming town with half-timbered houses and a river port.
The next day, we headed to Quiberon, an Atlantic resort known for its thalassotherapy and sardine and seafood fishing, to board a boat for Belle-Île: beautiful in name and in nature! The largest of Brittany’s islands, it embodies everything this region has to offer, from lighthouses to white beaches, fishing villages, cliffs overlooking the ocean, the peaceful inland countryside, and the stunning Caribbean-colored sea. We stayed in Sauzon, a quiet fishing village, exploring the island’s wonderful sights over three days!
The next stop was Quimper, to visit the Concarneau area, the village of Locronan, and Douarnenez—lively and colorful places where you can breathe in Breton tradition.
Did you visit the north of Brittany?
Yes! We headed to the Crozon Peninsula, jutting out into the sea, with its stunning, wild beaches, a favorite haunt of surfers, and the stunning Camaret-sur-Mer, where we slept, with the moving Chapel of Notre-Dame de Rocamadour, which, it is said, on days of heavy fog guided ships returning from sea with the tolling of its bell.
Continuing north, we reached the Pointe de Saint-Mathieu, with its legendary lighthouse, and the small village of Le Conquet, undoubtedly our favorite stop for its “end of the world” feeling. Here, the stories of sailors and an unbreakable bond with the ocean still echo.
Leaving the west coast, we then headed towards Paimpol, passing the beautiful but very crowded Pink Granite Coast, finally to Saint-Malo, a corsair town, Cancale, and Mont-Saint-Michel, the last stop on our journey before returning.
A stop that amazed you, a stop that somehow “disappointed” you.
The stop I loved the most was the one at Pointe de Saint-Mathieu. It’s because of its sense of disorientation (or “dépaysement” as the French say), and of the end of the world. The lighthouse is wonderful, with an unroofed abbey next to it that recalls our San Galgano. You can also sleep in a hotel right on the seafront!
The stop that somewhat disappointed me was Saint-Malo, where we had decided to sleep. In my opinion is worth a day trip, especially for its beauty and its walls. However, it was very crowded, full of tourists, very different from the more ocean-side stops, quiet and far from overtourism.
Would you call Brittany an “eco-destination”? Why?
Yes, I would call it an eco-friendly destination. There’s a lot of respect for the ocean and the coast. On Belle-Île, for example, starting June 20, 2022, hiking with steel-tipped poles is prohibited. The aim is to reduce the risk of trail erosion and vegetation degradation.
Furthermore, the island has decided to minimize light pollution by limiting nighttime lighting to the main towns.
Practical tips for a trip to Brittany.
Depending on your available time and your interests, it’s a good idea to consider which area of Brittany to explore. With a week, it’s best to focus on a smaller portion of the region, such as the west coast. It’s perfect if you enjoy wild places, vast landscapes, and fewer crowds. If you prefer to visit historic sites, you could opt for the north coast, with Mont-Saint-Michel, Saint-Malo, and the Pink Granite Coast. On the other hand, these places are much more crowded. If you have more time, you can consider taking multiple stops, as we did.
It’s important, especially in places like Belle-Île, to book in advance. There aren’t many accommodations, and if you plan to take ferries, buy tickets in advance.
Belle-Île: a destination within a destination!
Belle-Île is a destination in itself that, as a well-known guide wrote, is “worth the trip” on its own. This island has a magnetic charm, and visiting it offers a glimpse of everything Brittany has to offer.
Perfect for hiking, the GR340 coastal path is divided into five stages, totaling 85 km, allowing you to fully circle the island, always in touch with the ocean and the relentless rhythm of the tides. This trail was named a “heart” itinerary by the French in 2022, for its sheer beauty and enjoyable walking.
For those who prefer relaxation and a slower pace of life, you can discover more than 50 white-sand beaches and coves. There are also cycle paths to explore the island at a leisurely pace, water sports, and, of course, excellent food!
The strongest emotion?
There were many emotions, but the strongest was the morning we woke up at the Saint-Mathieu Lighthouse. I went out early to take sunrise photos, but there was thick fog. I found myself in a dream, with the lighthouse still shining, the ruins of the Abbey, and the calm ocean in the background. Pure magic!
Delicious stops: Breton cuisine!
You can’t talk about Brittany without mentioning its excellent cuisine! The legendary savory crepes, called Galettes here, are delicious and can be found everywhere. They are made with buckwheat flour and can be filled with any number of toppings, like our pizza, but the classic is cheese, Emmental, and egg.
Another cornerstone is salted butter, a blessing and a curse! Usually erved with bread, it’s the basis of numerous recipes.
Then there’s the myriad of fresh seafood found along the coast, each town having its own specialty. Quiberon with its sardines, Camaret the lobster capital, Paimpol the scallops capital, Cançale the home of oysters. You can taste them freshly caught on the harbor, sipping a chilled white wine! We can’t help but mention the incredible variety of cheeses found everywhere here.
What else is there to add after a story like this? Only that life should be about adventures!