If you think that skincare mania is just a trend of the moment, you are wrong! The rituals related to beauty and the search for aesthetic perfection in Japan and Korea have ancient traditions, even if different.
How did we get to the minimal ritual of J-Beauty (Japanese beauty) and the routine of K-Beauty (Korean beauty) that even exceeds 10 steps?! Let’s start by saying that in Japan sobriety envelops every aspect of everyday life. On the other hand, in Korea there is a more technological approach. That is also reflected in the products’ packaging, where manga and cartoons are often depicted!
Japanese skincare and cosmetics history
Japanese cosmetics are an integral part of the culture. Since the Nara Period (710-794) the first rice powders appear, that have the purpose of whitening the skin and making it pale, the embodiment of an aesthetic canon and social status.
In the Heian Period (794-1185) red and black pigments are added to white. Geishas, Maikos and Kabuki actors used them to color their lips and eyes. It is from the Edo Period (1603-1868) that natural cosmetics begin to develop. People started to use plant and flower extracts in the beauty routine, according to the “Miyako fuzoku kewaiden” (Manual of Cosmetics in the Capital). Modern J-Beauty, based on the steps of double cleansing and double hydration, will arrive in the Meiji Period (1868-1912) with the opening of Japan to the West. The Heisei Period (1989-2019) and the Reiwa Period (2019 – ongoing) have consecrated Japanese cosmetics, making it one of the most sought-after and followed worldwide, with the birth of many brands.
The whiteness of the face in Japan was also linked to a social canon. It was the prerogative of the nobility to dye the skin of the face and the nape of the neck white with a powder mixed with water, the oshiroi. Oshiroi was obtained by pulverizing rice grains or seashells until the 19th century. Then it was replaced by “Chinese clay”, which contained lead powder and caused fatal poisoning.
Double cleansing
Double cleansing was born in Japan when geishas, maiko (aspiring geishas) and Kabuki theater actors needed to remove their make-up. The oshiroi was spread after two types of wax: the ishineri on the eyebrows, the bintsuke on the face, neck and nape of the neck. It was the only way to remove this makeup mask.
Geishas and maiko applied oshiroi only to the right and left side of the nape of the neck, considered in Japan the most seductive part of the body. The first phase of double cleansing involved the application of tsubaki, pure Camellia japonica oil to dissolve makeup. Then a rice-based foaming soap was applied, to be rinsed off. Today the first phase of this cleansing involves the use of oils or butters.
In 1818, the Miyako fuzoku kewaiden came out. It was a cosmetics manual that contributed to the spread of these practices. This publication laid the foundations for modern Japanese cosmetics. It also reveals the techniques for whitening the skin and how to apply and remove oshiroi.
Japanese cosmetics and skincare between rituals and holistic vision
The term “holistic” derives from the Greek term “olos”, or “totality”. This word perfectly explains the Japanese aesthetic concept! The well-being of the skin is connected to internal well-being and therefore external beauty is the result of internal beauty. This is why Japanese women practice aesthetic rituals since childhood.
J-beauty is based on three aesthetic principles, according to the Shiso, the Japanese masters expert in the discipline that regulates skin care. Kanso, simplicity: the products are based on natural ingredients such as rice, camellia and tea. Shibui, ethereal beauty: only a few products, which are applied according to a very precise ritual, aimed at enhancing inner beauty. Seijaku, energized calm: the ritual of gestures.
The final goal is silky skin, a white, translucent, luminous skin, free of imperfections. This is the so-called “mochi hada”, which has the consistency and shine of mochi, the typical Japanese rice cake.
Water is a key element in skincare. It is linked to the concept of purification, as also revealed by the tradition of onsen, natural thermal baths, located in areas with greater volcanic activity, such as Hakone, Beppu, Kusatsu and the mountains of Hida.
Cosmetics therefore make extensive use of products with very light textures, passed over the skin with elegance and precision and of aromas, essential oils and fragrances that stimulate emotions, a perfect balance between mind and body.
History of Korean Skincare
Since ancient times, during the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910), beauty was the result of inner balance. Taking care of one’s appearance was a demonstration of respect towards oneself and towards others.
The original beauty routine was based on natural ingredients. Rice, with illuminating and nourishing properties, is rich in vitamins B, C and E, used to give the skin luminosity. Camellia oil, known for its high levels of omega-9 and antioxidants, was also a valid ally for skin and hair. Creams contained also millet, peach blossoms and pumpkin seeds.
The women of the Joseon Dynasty loved makeup and used rice and millet powders to make their facial skin white. They prepared smoothing scrubs, lipsticks made from dried red peppers and painted their eyebrows with charcoal. The facial cleanser was made from mung beans, mixed with water, while tonics and lotions were extracted from plants.
Since the aroma of these natural cosmetics was not pleasant, they were added with fragrances derived from dried clove buds. In the 9th century Yi Bingheogak wrote the Gyuhap Chongseo or “Women’s Encyclopedia”, a practical guide for young married women. It is a text that offers advice on etiquette, cooking and household management, with an in-depth look at beauty and personal care and details on how to make cosmetics.
In the 20th century the first mass-produced cosmetic product, Bakgabun, or Park Powder, became widespread. It was a translucent powder, soon withdrawn from the market due to its high lead content.
Modern K-beauty routine
The modern K-beauty skincare routine involves, unlike the Japanese one, which is simple and made up of few ingredients, the stratification of a large number of products. That’s the so-called layering, to be applied strictly with the hands, step by step, according to a precise order.
Going to a mall dedicated only to beauty products is a must in Korea. Just think that the inhabitants often wear face masks, eye patches or hair care accessories even while walking down the street! There are real neighborhoods dedicated to beauty shopping and beauty centers like in Seoul, Gangnam or Myeongdong Myeongdong Town.
And you, which beauty philosophy do you feel closest to?!